Pizza sold by the inch seems like an ideal catering concept, but does it make sense in a sit-down pizzeria? Only if the pies are good, and at Pinch, they're exceptional. Brothers Todd and Matthew Birnbaum paint their thin, twice-baked crusts with a light marinara, covering each 4-to-36-inch-long catwalk with three different cheeses and a buffet's worth of toppings. It's not unusual to see parties of college-educated professionals furrowing their brows over the complex ordering system. But, like honest subcontractors, the Birnbaums offer "price quotes" to the truly baffled. Homemade pastas and heaping salads are much easier to understand, and not half bad for a place fixated on pizza-metrics. — Jon Steinberg
Note
Reservations are accepted for dinner only.
Recommended Dishes
Pizza, $0.50 per inch, toppings extra; arugula with goat cheese and citrus vinaigrette, $9
7.0
"Recommended" Average Reader Rating on a Scale of 10
I was enamored by Pinch on Park Ave South and brought my boyfriend for some yummy pizza to the new Pinch on Columbus Ave at about 82/83 Streets. Boy, I was really looking forward to savoring all the fine qualities of this cafe that I remembered as all the other reviewers have noted. Well, what a total disappointment. I wanted a white pizza, and the cashier did not know what I was talking about or how to make it the way I used to have it on Park Ave. The kitchen staff didnt either. I asked for it with plenty of riccota - there was almost none. The staff was not food-literate as on Park Ave. The crust was totally dry. The whole experience was pretty crappy. The charm is gone - you now get your own metal utensils and bus your own table.
I should have known something was amiss when I noticed they combined themselves with a macaroni and cheese purveyor. And when the dining area looked like a sleek cafeteria.
Oh, and the prices are still high. Overall, it was a complete bust.
Pinch's pizza is of considerably higher quality than anything in the area... and is priced accordingly, but not a bad deal considering how satisying it can be.
The place has a really nice atmosphere and decor for a casual eating spot, with options to sit up front with your order or sit-down service, both reasonably quick. And nice extras like homemade gelato, soups and salads, and root beer by the bottle (they have beer and wine, too).
What really makes the place stand out is how considerate and hospitable the owner(s) and staff are -- they go out of their way to learn customers' names and favorite orders, and seem almost obsessed with making sure everyone feels welcome and has a good time. I heard the cashier say to someone who had brought his plate up to the counter after eating in the front area to please never worry about it again -- "you're our guest, we'll clean up after you."