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Tucked into a cozy West Village storefront, the Pink Tea Cup is every bit as inviting as its name suggests, with crowded rows of petite wooden tables, faux-Tiffany hanging fixtures, and, yes, soft rose-colored walls. Founded by Floridian Mary Raye in 1954, the restaurant’s tradition of home-style southern cooking is carried on today by Raye’s niece and grand-niece, and the convivial ambience and menu reflect the restaurant’s devotion to homespun family fare. Like any good mom, the Pink Tea Cup offers an overwhelming spread: "Dinner" means soup, salad, entrée, bread, two vegetables, and dessert, served fast, hot, and in heaping portions. Pork chops and the barely breaded fried chicken are local favorites; sweet and spicy barbecued ribs and a side of salty collard greens are standouts. On busy days, the kitchen can get distracted or take shortcuts, and the quality of the cooking can be uneven. But the creamy macaroni and cheese is straight from scratch, and the low-key gingery bread pudding is worth saving space for. — Jessica Branch

Fried chicken, $12; barbecued ribs, $15; macaroni and cheese, $3