Profile

A glorified takeout joint that also happens to have seating, Pino’s does a brisk amount of to-go business. Yet despite water-stained ceiling tiles, salmon-colored walls in sore need of repainting, and ambient Italian pop standards, the restaurant’s generous portions also draw diners to the glass-topped tables and paper placemats in its small dining area. Specialties focus on filling American versions of Italian standards—more Sopranos fast food than lovingly prepared Big Night dishes—along with by-the-slice pizza and calzones for local teens. Enthusiastic chef Ralph Andretta and his teenage son make pasta to order, like rigatoni in a deliciously soupy, pancetta-flecked vodka sauce, or orecchiette with broccoli rabe. Their hot antipasto plate lands with a thud, carrying bland, bread-crumb-stuffed peppers, mushrooms, shrimp, and clams, as well as ricotta-stuffed eggplant rolls. Again, portions are not for the timid. Flat-pounded veal cutlet parmigiana is layered with salty mozzarella and rich, oily tomato sauce, and softball-sized, deep-fried rice balls are stuffed with ground beef. Generically over-the-top desserts are drenched in whipped cream and chocolate, caramel, or strawberry sauce. While you won’t get anything original from Pino’s, the kitchen is sincere and eager to please. And you definitely won’t go home hungry. — Timothy Cooper

Pino’s takes pains to make it known that it’s unrelated to the other similarly named restaurant, Pino’s La Forchetta Pizzeria, on Seventh Avenue in Park Slope.

Hot antipasto for two, $10; penne vodka sauce, $10; rice ball, $2.50