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It’s a daring move to open a pizza place within a block or two of Kesté and John's of Bleecker Street, in a landmarked space that held an 80-year-old Italian bakery, no less. However, Pizza Roma's offerings are distinct enough to avoid competing with neighbors past or present. The specialty, of course, is the slablike pizza traditionally sold by the inch in Rome, but which here is offered in focaccia-like square slices topped with an array of imported cheeses and meats. While standard Margherita disappoints — it's oversauced and under-cheesed — the tartufina (truffle) is complex, earthy and set atop an appealingly thick and chewy crust. Speaking of the crust, it's aged for 96 hours, which is supposed to make it more digestible, according to the menu, but we didn't notice any difference. Order the stuffed pizza and you'll get this same inch-thick crust split and stuffed with a choice of simple fillings; however, even when enclosing good prosciutto, the odd sandwich of sorts manages to taste bland. Still these misses are forgivable, since the whole dining experience is so pronouncedly Italian, from the charming (and rather slow) service to the elegant and spare tableware to the nearby tables of good-looking expats chattering away in lilting tones. — Jenny Miller

Tartufina pizza, $19.50

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