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Staff speaking in animated Italian is an early indication that N28 is an authentic version of the Neapolitan corner pizza shop. Further evidence comes from the brick oven, afforded a room of its own and topped by a banner honoring the Napoli football club. This oven produces top-rate pies, with thin crusts that are crisp on the edges and chewy inside. Sear marks lend a subtle smoky flavor, accented by the mix of cherry and oak that fuels the fires. The signature pizza is the margherita reginella. Pools of olive oil, imported from Calabria, add a gloss to tangy crushed tomatoes, fresh basil leaves, and mozzarella di bufala. A richer option is the tartufo, an earthy combination of mushrooms, rosemary, and truffle oil. Small pies are round; larger versions come on rectangular trays. The restaurant’s main room is rustic, with brick walls painted tomato-soup red and worn wooden tables. On the back wall, you’ll spot a mosaic of “la smorfia,” the Neapolitan dream text used to guide lottery picks. The tiles show Italy as No. 1. — Ethan Wolff

Margherita reginella pizza, $16; pizza al tartufo, $16; spinach ravioli, $12.95