A, B, C, D, E, F, M at W. 4th St.-Washington Sq.
Houston St. to Barrow St., Thompson St. to Hudson St.
Staff speaking in animated Italian is an early indication that N28 is an authentic version of the Neapolitan corner pizza shop. Further evidence comes from the brick oven, afforded a room of its own and topped by a banner honoring the Napoli football club. This oven produces top-rate pies, with thin crusts that are crisp on the edges and chewy inside. Sear marks lend a subtle smoky flavor, accented by the mix of cherry and oak that fuels the fires. The signature pizza is the margherita reginella. Pools of olive oil, imported from Calabria, add a gloss to tangy crushed tomatoes, fresh basil leaves, and mozzarella di bufala. A richer option is the tartufo, an earthy combination of mushrooms, rosemary, and truffle oil. Small pies are round; larger versions come on rectangular trays. The restaurant’s main room is rustic, with brick walls painted tomato-soup red and worn wooden tables. On the back wall, you’ll spot a mosaic of “la smorfia,” the Neapolitan dream text used to guide lottery picks. The tiles show Italy as No. 1.Recommended Dishes
Margherita reginella pizza, $17; pizza al tartufo, $16; spinach ravioli, $16