How to identify the must-order at this no-frills corner spot? Just glance over at the wall, where you’ll see a glossy photo of miang kana, the street-food snack that has become a Ploy signature, so compelling and memorable you’ll likely refer to the restaurant henceforth as That Miang Kana Place. Miang, which originated as a fermented wild tea leaf in northern Thailand, is interpreted here as a stack of teardrop-shaped Thai broccoli leaves served beside a crunchy, chewy, and altogether invigorating dice of raw ginger, red and green chiles, roasted peanuts, red onion, and unpeeled lime, riddled with shreds of savory pork. It’s a terrific appetizer, and something of a health food, apparently. The same might not be said of deep-fried, stubby chive “pancakes” that are crispier than a Balthazar French fry. We also recommend the pad kee mao noodles, and a bracing chicken larb that doesn’t stint on chile heat or fish-sauce funk. You will be informed, should you order the nam kao tod salad special, that it’s for Thai people, but don’t let that stop you. The appeal of fermented pork sausage mingled with deep-fried rice nuggets infused with chile paste is, it turns out, universal.