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Tiny enough to make a Lilliputian feel cramped, Pommes Frites (essentially a counter and a cash register) keeps its menu simple: gourmet French fries. Sacks of potatoes, faux 19th-century wood paneling, and quirky 60s-era Parisian pop tunes proclaim kitsch, but the strong aroma of freshly fried tubers commands attention from the 20-something crowd. True to the Belgian tradition, each batch of thickly sliced potatoes is fried twice—to cook first and then a second time to add color and crunch. The final product blends a slightly crispy exterior with the substantial taste of real tater. The menu's assortment of 25 sauces—from a mild European mayonnaise to a red hot Sambal Olek (an Indonesian chili paste)—can enliven the flavor even further. If you ask the staff which sauces might interest you, your reward may be a small sample of each dip served over a steaming-hot fry or two. — John Vorwald

Large order of Belgian fries with parmesian peppercorn sauce, $8.25