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Forever immortalized on Seinfeld as a good place for breakups, Pomodoro Rosso continues to charm Upper West Siders of every relationship status with its homey cooking and unpretentious atmosphere. The pan-Italian gastronomy is highlighted in the dining room's panoramic mural of a hillside Tuscan villa that blends into a street scene reminiscent of Venice. Beige walls bedecked with decorative ceramic plates, a ceiling trellis with hanging grapes and red-and-white checkered tablecloths lend a casual air. Certain dishes excel: Vongole posillipo's tender in-shell clams are simmered in a wine and tomato broth enlivened with garlic chunks and parsley. Polenta with wild mushrooms, bruschetta, fried calamari, and clams oreganata also outshine other dishes. Pasta preparations span the simple, like fettucini with tomato and basil, and the elaborate, like pappardelle al crostaceo, with lobster, shrimp, spinach, and shiitake mushrooms in a garlicky light tomato sauce. Tomatoes, wine, garlic, mushrooms, onions and lemon invigorate main courses from a light zuppa di pesce to a hearty brasato di carne miste with braised lamb, beef and chicken. Open since 1993, nobody's breaking up with Pomodoro Rosso anytime soon. — Michael Anstendig

Vongole posillipo, $10.95; zuppa di pesce, $25.95