Pondicheri

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80 Good

An eclectic, all-day Indian canteen that serves masala chicken wings, tandoori quail, and coconut-flavored pancakes.

15 W. 27th St., New York, NY, 10001

646-878-4375

https://www.pondicheri.com/location/new-york/

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The lowdown

Anita Jaisinghani made her reputation in Houston, serving an eclectic, accessible brand of Indian cooking that encompasses every meal of the day. It’s possible to begin your day at this bustling, Flatiron canteen with a stack of coconut-flavored pancakes topped with jaggery syrup at 8 a.m., work your way through several braised-goat samosas and some deliciously messy yogurt-and-ginger-encrusted masala chicken wings for lunch, and conclude with a dinner of tandoori quail and a bite, or two, of lamb shanks simmered in the rogan josh style. Pay attention to the Mumbai-style “frankie” roti wraps (especially the all-day breakfast version, filled with scrambled masala eggs and chutney), and the tempting array of items from the prolific house “bake lab,” like giant chewy cookies touched with coconut and mint or chile-spiced chocolate, sticky gulab jamun doughnuts soaked in rose-­cardamom syrup, and Jaisinghani’s famous chai pie, which has the consistency of New York cheesecake and is topped with whipped cream and a scattering of candied cashews.

Adam Platt

What you need to know

Insider Tips Dont’s miss Meatless Monday.

Recommended DishesAll-day breakfast frankie; mint coconut cookies; chai pie.

DrinksFull Bar

Noise LevelCivilized