Profile

Order carefully. Hot-and-sour lemongrass soup is bland and fried spring rolls are more greasy than lively. But chicken satay, which comes with a satisfying, peanut-sweet dipping sauce, is tender and spicy. You'll also find curries, sautéed entrées with the usual choices of land and sea proteins, plus a few fried fish and roasted duck plates. Among the many vegetarian dishes is a winning mock-duck in Panang curry—the curry is light and spicy, and the gluten "duck" has a rich, gamey taste and a convincing texture. — Simon Spelling