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Order carefully. Hot-and-sour lemongrass soup is bland and fried spring rolls are more greasy than lively. But chicken satay, which comes with a satisfying, peanut-sweet dipping sauce, is tender and spicy. You'll also find curries, sautéed entrées with the usual choices of land and sea proteins, plus a few fried fish and roasted duck plates. Among the many vegetarian dishes is a winning mock-duck in Panang curry—the curry is light and spicy, and the gluten "duck" has a rich, gamey taste and a convincing texture. — Simon Spelling

A lunch menu (Mon.—Fri., 11:30 a.m.—3 p.m.) offers basic curries and stir-fries—chicken, beef, or pork cost $6.95, shrimp or squid are $7.95.

Chicken satay, $7.95