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Provence en Boîte, a rustic bistro and pâtisserie, had a four-year run in Bay Ridge before moving to Carroll Gardens’ Restaurant Row. The décor continues French country casual, with a long blonde-wood banquette set with tiny pillows, small tables, beige walls, and a collection of antique tin boxes; floor-to-ceiling windows let in the sunshine. Chef Jean-Jacques Bernat, who led the pastry departments at the Vinegar Factory and Citarella, now shows off his baking finesse at the pâtisserie, with a half-dozen breads daily, from sublimely crusty breads, baguettes, and croissants to challah, as well as 28 classic pastries like fruit tarts and napoleons. The lunch menu focuses on salads, quiches, sandwiches, and savory crêpes; at dinner, it’s sturdy, satisfying bistro fare, provided you skip the unremarkable soups and disappointing broth-based entrées. Stick with pan-seared, roasted, and braised meats, like the tasty, herb-marinated rack of lamb, pan-seared and served with a tangy blueberry reduction. In this zero-sum culinary game, Bay Ridge’s loss is Carroll Gardens’ gain. — Michael Anstendig

Gratinée l’oignon, $7.50; bouillabaisse Provençal, $21