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As opposed to your more futuristic Thai joints, Pure Thai Shophouse, the new 35-seater from David and Vanida Bank of Recipe and Land Thai Kitchen, is meant to evoke Thailand’s homier canteens. On the menu, you’ll find an assortment of budget-friendly Wok plates as well as noodle dishes that can be ordered with your choice of noodle (the egg variety is handmade), and “dry” or as a soup. They’re prepared by Vanida at a small noodle bar and if you want a taste of her hometown of Ratchaburi, the crab and pork combination is the way to go. Her Bangkok-born husband David got his start at her family’s restaurant in Thailand (they’ll be using family recipes) but then he’s also been sous-chef at Mercer Kitchen. — Daniel Maurer