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This keep-it-simple chain bridges much of Asia—its five branches churn out enough Chinese, Japanese, Thai, "Revolution Diet" (health conscious), and vegetarian food to fill a 10-page menu. The 97th St. flagship opened in 1976 and doesn't appear to have been remodeled since. Garish violet and aqua neon illuminate the sprawling space, and a massive, poorly reproduced Japanese mural covers the back wall. The seating is austere: marbleized formica tables, large booths, and a sushi bar adorned by wood and paper lanterns. Of the overwhelming and largely mediocre offerings the best eats are Szechuan specialties. The Paradise Chicken douses shredded meat, slightly sweet red bell peppers, and earthy Portobello mushrooms in a spicy red chili sauce typical of the region. The more adventurous jumbo shrimp are glazed with a house-made honey walnut sauce and served with candied walnuts. The dim sum, sadly, doesn't live up to its hype. — Kate Appleton

Dim sum brunch is served on Saturdays and Sundays until 3 p.m.

Paradise chicken, $10.95; honey crispy walnut shrimp, $12.95