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The roast pork buns have made this aged coffee shop (which opened in 1968) a destination. Throughout the morning, customers hoping to take home a box of them and their steamed cousins fight their way to the register in front. At counter stools and shabby booths in back, though, the scene is sedate. Men pore over newspapers, chat over pots of coffee, and tuck into various soups stocked with dumplings or noodles and stuffed buns. As good as these are, the rest of the menu, taped to the wall, is also worth exploring. For instance, a wide swathe of slick rice noodle folded around rich nuggets of beef is manna when squirted with salty soy-based sauce and topped off, as many regulars like it, with a few shakes of Red Devil hot sauce. — JJ Goode