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It's virtually impossible to talk about business here—the dining room of this French bistro is softly lit and hums with mellow conversation. Crimson lettering covers the mirrors on each wall, announcing wines by the glass. And decorating the walls are framed book jackets—the authors are or were customers (Joan Didion rubs shoulders with Erica Jong). Polished types from the neighborhood fill most tables, bald pates mixed with glossy blond highlights. Among the menu's classic bistro dishes, several of the best involve pork or duck. The house terrine, for instance, is brightened with an herbal note, while the sharp flavor of the chicory salad is balanced with chewy, savory bacon cubes. The braised duck's rich, Madeira-laced sauce has a citrusy kick. A hefty coucroute garnie (pork with sauerkraut) is available year-round. For something lighter, choose the fish from the list of daily specials and have it prepared à la meunière. Desserts tend towards the creamy, such as chocolate hazelnut mousse or the poached pears with ice cream and chocolate sauce. — Jennifer Paull

Chicory salad, $14.50; terrine, $12