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This venue is closed.

A Roman-style trattoria with an ostensible focus on offal, Quinto Quarto (the name means "fifth quarter" in Italian) has revised its focus since opening in mid-2009. Tripe and oxtail are now off the menu (except for the occasional daily special) and have been replaced by homey, lightly garnished pastas and other comforting options—such as rabbit baked with sage and oven-roasted salsiccia—with friendly prices. The airy room is as rustic as the cuisine: Wooden tables and chairs complement straightforward dishes like super-cheesy onion soup, a generously-portioned tart-celery puree, and tangy spaghetti cacio e pepe. Still, certain dishes, like the braised lamb, taste (for better or worse) like you could have made them at home. Depending on how much time you’ve budgeted for your meal, the spotty service either adds to the Euro feel or verges on infuriating; unexciting desserts provide scant consolation. — Helen Rosner

Spaghetti cacao e pepe, $11, onion soup, $7.95