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From the street, Rachel's American Bistro is nearly indistinguishable from the other moderately priced Hell's Kitchen restaurants dotting Ninth Avenue. But jazz standards and subdued lighting set a sophisticated, convivial mood that helps the interior overcome its kitschy faux-cottage styling. Rachel's delivers inspired New American fare anchored by satisfying staples, like baked chicken, ribeye steak, and grilled salmon. Carrot-parsnip-broccoli purée and corn soufflé offer brilliant twists on familiar side dishes. The chicken baked in crushed pecan and sweet honey mustard is crunchy and moist, while a Dijon soy demi glaze gives a little kick to a savory pistachio-encrusted tuna. A full list of after-dinner coffees and digestifs may tempt you to linger among the inconspicuous, mixed-age crowd, but even if you make a quick exit, a meal at Rachel's will leave most palates satisfied. — John Vorwald

Entree and cocktail, $12.95; Wed. and Sat., 11 a.m.—3 p.m.; Sun., 11:30 a.m.—3 p.m.

Spinach potato soup, $7.95; chicken breast with pecans in a honey mustard sauce, $16.95; rare pistachio-encrusted tuna in a Dijon soy demi glaze, $22.95