The reason to visit this small, unassuming Tribeca dining room is Master Sommelier Pascaline Lepeltier’s improbably deep, mind-bogglingly elegant wine list, which is stocked with almost anything an oenophile could dream up, and through which she will happily guide non-oenophiles. (A recent suggestion of a gros manseng/petit manseng/petit courbu white blend from cult producer Domaine Arretxea was both surprising and revelatory.) A menu of austere, hyper-seasonal food from chef Diego Moya keeps pace. Dishes might include lentils tossed with crème fraÎche and topped with trout roe; a dice of cuttlefish garnished with slices of tiny young asparagus; or rosy duck breast in a delicate, barely sweet sauce of orange and Earl Grey. It all stands up to the wine without overshadowing it.