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Out in Jackson Heights, Queens, Rajbhog Sweets is best-known for its 60-plus varieties of milk-based confections tantalizingly arranged in display cases like Neuchâtel truffles. But toward the back, a steam-table selection of mostly Gujarati vegetarian dishes makes this sweetshop a compelling mealtime destination. The assortment changes daily, and includes snacks like khaman dhokla (steamed chickpea-flour cakes dotted with black mustard seeds) and chickpea-battered chili peppers. Freed from gloppy curry bondage, vegetables here are done to a delicate turn: tooriya patra combines long green squash with Swiss-chard leaves and lima beans; karela are green Chinese eggplant, cooked in a subtly spicy sauce with potatoes and cashew nuts. At lunch, two vegetables, a paratha (flaky griddle-fried bread) or poori (puffy deep-fried bread), and a pickle will run you $4.99; $6.49 buys an extra vegetable medley, plus rice and dal. If you still have room for dessert, you're in the right place. — Rob Patronite and Robin Raisfeld

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• Cheap Eats Guide 2006 (8/7/06)