Sun-Thu, noon-3pm and 4:30pm-11pm; Fri-Sat, noon-3pm and 4:30pm-midnight
Nearby Subway Stops
6 at Astor Pl.
Prices
$9.50-$11
Payment Methods
Cash Only
Special Features
Lunch
Alcohol
Beer and Wine Only
Sake and Sojou
Reservations
Accepted/Not Necessary
Profile
One of the biggest events among Japanese expats, noodle slurpers, and culinary screwballs of every persuasion was the opening of this ramen bar, a first U.S. branch of a Japanese mini-chain. And for good reason: The shio (or salt-based) broth is a revelation—smooth with a mellow roundness, subtly flavored with various things like dried scallops and dried anchovies. The noodles range in thickness from spaghettini-size to linguine-size, and, served hot in broth or cold (tsukemen style) on a separate plate for dipping, are firm and springy and pretty much irresistible. A non-ramen must-have dish is the oyako-don, crumbly pieces of minced chicken like the kind you’d find in a Thai larb, topped with a soft-cooked egg and served over rice. The best place to eat is at the low counter opposite the kitchen where three ramen wranglers, their heads wrapped in what appear to be gym towels, buzz about like members of a radical modern-dance troupe. — Rob Patronite and Robin Raisfeld
When I went to Ramen Setagaya, I ordered the Shio Ramen with a side of Oyako-don. The Oyako-don came first, and I instantly regretted ordering it. The chicken was minced to a paste, and it's look, texture, and smell were very reminiscent of cat food. Things were not improved by the very strong pickles or the cold, raw egg yolk which the dish wasn't quite hot enough to heat through, even when broken. Then the Ramen came. It was very good, with a delicately flavored broth, perfectly cooked salt egg, and wonderful noodles. The belly pork was a bit dry, but quite flavorful. I think, frankly, that I ordered poorly and that this place is much better than my experience. Everyone around seemed to enjoy their edamame and shiu-mai, I was just unlucky enough to order the Oyako-don.
What makes a good bowl of ramen in my opinion:
1) Noodles
2) Broth
3) Ingredients
4) Quantity
5) Price.
Setagaya's noodles are perfect in texture and they give you good quantity for the price. The pork slices are good and not overly fatty but they give you fairly thin slices. They include boiled eggs, some bamboo shoots, and some nori. My biggest knock would have to be the fishiness and the greasiness of the broth. I am normally ok with fishy but this was a bit strong for my taste. You can see a thin layer of oil sitting over the top of the broth.
Its not easy to find the perfect bowl of ramen in NYC but if there were one, it would contain the noodles from Setagaya, the broth from Ippudo, the ingredients from Momofuku, and the quantity and price of Sapporo.