Raoul’s

The rating scale of 0 to 100 reflects our editors’ appraisals of all the tangible and intangible factors that make a restaurant or bar great — or terrible — regardless of price.

85 Very Good

Soho’s original bistro is aging gracefully.

180 Prince St., New York, NY, 10012

212-966-3518

http://raouls.com

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The lowdown

This timeless, satisfying Soho bistro belongs to that blessed genre of venerable family establishments that survive around town because the original owners — in this case, the Raoul brothers from Alsace — had the foresight to forgo signing a lease many decades ago, and decided to purchase the building instead. The result, in this case, is a kind of living museum to the clubby downtown swinger vibe of the ‘70s and ‘80s when the brothers opened the restaurant on Prince Street, with the same photos and paintings on the walls, more or less the same menu (yes, get the steak au poivre with plenty of frites), and even the same mix of Euro swingers and raffish, gracefully aging regulars populating the tables. If burgers are your thing, it’s worth trying the messy, gravy-soaked French-style house cheeseburger, which was introduced a few years back as a novelty item, and the last time we checked, was served only at the bar.

Adam Platt

What you need to know

Recommended DishesSteak au poivre.

DrinksFull Bar

Noise LevelCivilized