Profile

A local favorite among Persian importers in midtown, this laid-back grill produces banquets of refreshing appetizers and gargantuan platters of expertly charred meat. The interior, however, is a bit awkward –exposed brick contrasts with gilded mirrors and polished, mahogany-stained tables, and harsh fluorescent light from the kitchen blasts into the warmly lit dining room every time the door swings open. Thankfully the food distracts. Kebab courses are enough for two, and come heaped with grilled vegetables and rice. Kobideh, a juicy, foot-long skewer of ground lamb and beef, is perfumed with cardamom, cumin, and parsley before getting a good char. While some choices like Kebob Barg, made from beef tenderloin, can be a chewy workout, chicken options are succulent and flavorful (if full of bones and messy to eat). Details, like sauces, impress: Mast & Khiar, an unctuous yogurt dip, carries a surprising jolt from its chunks of pickled cucumber and mint; and Sambuseh, four fried chickpea dumplings, come with a cup of spicy-sour chutney for dunking. For dessert the Zoolbia Bamieh is fun alternative to baklava: Made from fried dough soaked in rosewater syrup, it’s a sticky treat best savored along with a cup of black tea. — Benjamin Kneen

Reservations are only accepted for parties of four or more.

Sambuseh, $6.50; Kobideh kebob, $12; Jujeh kebob, $14