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Since 1996, the first locale of this chainlet Iranian grill has been serving up heaping portions of excellently charred meats, well-spiced stews, and meze-like Middle Eastern starters. Taking up two floors of a quiet block in a neighborhood that straddles Kips Bay and Murray Hill, the narrow space is outfitted with exposed brick walls, low ceilings, and dim-it frosted lights. Small plates range from an enjoyably thick hummus to an unfortunately undercooked crunchy chicken and chickpea dumpling—with no appetizer over $6.50 it doesn’t hurt to try a few. The Koresh Bademjan is a tomato-flavored stew of moist lamb leg meat, but it’s the kabobs that are a must here, all charred on the long skewers to juicy perfection. The Sultani Kabob, for instance, contains two types of beef: One is a garlicky foot-long ground meat kabob and another has of moist chunks of tenderloin. Skip the run-of-the-mill desserts for a cup of sweet and earthy Turkish coffee. — Pervaiz Shallwani

Reservations are only accepted for groups of five or more.

Sultani kabob, $19; khoresh bdamjan, $15; ash reshteh, $4; kashk badamjoon, $6.50