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With dozens of local pizzerias sporting the name Ray’s and many claiming to be the first, Famous Ray’s of Greenwich Village is certainly a contender for Ur-Ray’s status. It was founded in 1973 by Mario Di Rienzo, a veteran of embassy kitchens, who retired in the 1990s and passed the torch to Sam Singh. Today, the restaurant remains a quintessential New York institution, with its beige-and-powder-blue-tiled walls, faux brickface, orange-brown-tiled floors, and an elaborate mosaic of a Roman fountain. It appeals to St. Vincent hospital docs, beat cops, and a colorful assortment of hungry twentysomethings—both in school and out. Just skip the “Famous” slices with their thick layers of gummy cheese and opt instead for a simple bacon slice; its smokiness is a wonderful change from sausage or pepperoni. The unsung Sicilian square also excels with a crust that knows how to balance a crispy exterior with a chewy interior. — Michael Anstendig

Sicilian slice, $2.35; cheese slice with bacon, $3