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Dim sum that’s available in the evening is a treat in itself; that the small bites here are juicy and fresh for the most part is an added boon. Shrimp dumplings in particular emerge sweet and spry; however, pork-taro buns have an off-putting muddy quality. The elegant surroundings (mirrored walls, red light, and curtains) are a bonus for those who like this style of Cantonese eating but not the grungy environs in which it’s often found. However, once entrées start to arrive, the mood changes from tucked-away downtown find to typical suburban Chinese spot: General Tso’s chicken is intriguingly paired with asparagus, but it’s low on flavor and spice, especially at these prices. Hot and sour soup is neither very hot nor sour, and pan-fried noodles arrive with a nice array of vegetables and an underwhelming coating of gloopy sauce. This is a great spot to come for a drink and some evening dim sum, but if it’s Chinese mains you want, best to head down the street into Chinatown. — Jenny Miller

Vegetarian spring roll, $5; young coconut pudding, $7