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From the moment you enter Regional Thai Sa-Woy, in the residential east end of Lenox Hill, it's evident how much care has been taken to create a unique atmosphere. The blindingly neon-yellow walls and modernist furniture are set off tastefully by ornate carvings and artwork imported from Bangkok—two seemingly incongruous styles, mixing together naturally. Above the bar are giant antique bells inside a little shrine-like container with gilding and multicolored glass, surrounded by ornate traditional art. On the back wall hangs a large modernist wall mural of a dragonfly in mid-flight. On the menu are the usual Thai favorites; curries, pad thai, and stir-fried chili dishes that arrive splayed colorfully on plates. For the adventurous are firecrackers, seasoned strips of spicy chicken. Thai tapas are unusual in that they use traditional flavorings, such as coconut, basil, and chili, but the flavors are adapted in a way that results in a dish that’s more nouveau cuisine than Bangkok bistro. Also fine are pineapple pork chops sautéed in cilantro root and garlic sauce—the earthy root played against sweet fruit and sharp garlic results in a sensational, multi-faceted blend. Desserts are aromatic and traditional: sweet exotic jackfruits, fried banana rolls with honey coconut sauce, and a sweet, light coconut ice cream. — David S. Hirschman

Thai ginger Pad King, $10.95; salmon and jumbo shrimp, $16.95