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As settlers from across the East River continue their march on Williamsburg, the long-gone frontier spirit becomes an even more distant memory while the hipness factor keeps inching up a notch or two. This shiny railcar-style diner in the heart of Billyburg looks unimposing from the outside, but once inside you'll see why Relish appeals to both neighborhood residents and frequent visitors. Part Florent-style diner, part plush Lower East Side night-spot, little Relish has a satisfying menu, flattering lighting and comfy booths. The gilded walls and plush banquettes of the warmly lit back-room lounge beckon imbibers past the diners up front. Relish is known for its martinis, especially the Metropolitan, made with Absolut Kurant, Cassis, cranberry and lime juice and Grand Marnier. — Charles Runnette