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Although Ninth Avenue now sports a cleaner, shinier sheen, the Renaissance Diner retains its old ways. Drawing support from the pillars of the classic New York diner—vinyl booths, fast service, greasy food, no frills—this local fixture continues to deliver late-night crowds and weekend brunch cliques a tried-and-true experience. For the former, there’s no shortage of grilled and fried items: BBQ burgers, oversize onion rings, and a Philly cheesesteak. For the latter, the Lumberjack—a heap of pancakes or waffles with eggs, bacon, ham, and sausage—will make post-meal ambitions pointless. Though the menu and the front of the restaurant (with its long counter and uninspired design) adhere doggedly to a blue-plate blueprint, Renaissance does have a surprisingly cozy back room with a fireplace, skylight, and bar. Ask for a table there. — Steven Horak

Lumberjack, $11.90; chicken Louisiana, $15.95