Profile

Joseph Restivo’s Italian cooking doesn’t strive for perfection, which he happily leaves for the Batalis of the world. But anchored by dishes from his family’s Italian-American pub in Jersey City, Restivo has since 1994 been a reliable, intimate supper spot. When the weather cooperates, patrons savor the few tables outside, but the tiny dining room, with forest-green walls and trimmed in dark wood, and bar, a chiseled-mahogony antique imported from Paris, have their own appeal, especially for after-work locals. The menu hews largely to the familiar: Crisp, fresh calamari are toothsome and tender; velvety carpaccio is aptly paired with balsamic-coated arugula and paper-thin sliced Parmesan. Veal chop looks gorgeous but can turn up dry and flavorless on the fork; character and charm unfortunately have their limits. — Pervaiz Shallwani

Calamari fritti, $9.95; carpaccio Parmigiana, $9.95