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For its first year, 2006, this coolly rustic space went without a phone number or a name. The omission lent an air of exclusivity that drew legions of trend-setters (and followers) to spend their late-night hours in Revel’s dim, spacious embrace. Revel has a moniker and digits now, but evenings continue as noisy, lively affairs, with models and CEO-types and their coteries filling the high black leather seats around the long copper bar. An expansive outdoor garden, heated in winter, takes up most of the dining area, with simple iron tables bordered by concrete. Owner Paolo Secondo, of the Soho wine bars Barolo and I Tre Merli, focuses his menu on slabs of sliced meat and whole fish served on hot platters of black volcanic rock; the sizzling repertoire includes a light but toothsome buffalo steak. If hot petrified lava should somehow fail to impress, a transporting pappardelle (handmade here with potato and semolina flour) topped with market-fresh tomato sauce, artichoke, and bits of roast lamb will captivate those still brave enough to consume carbs in public. — Laurel Fantauzzo

The volcanic rock keeps cooking your food once it arrives tableside, so order your steak more rare than you normally would.

Buffalo steak, $32; pappardelle with lamb, artichoke ragout and pecorino, $26