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90 Excellent

The scene-y hotel restaurant comes to Brooklyn.

80 Wythe Ave., Brooklyn, NY, 11211


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The lowdown

When she took charge of the kitchen in late 2017, Christina Lecki blasted whole heads of cauliflower in the embers, whipped wood-fired squash into zabaglione-like clouds, and tweaked the stately Wythe Hotel dining room with a root-cellar Gothic sort of vibe. The super-French wine list seems better than ever suited to the food (now the responsibility of executive chef Charlene Santiago), which isn’t all veggies: Coppa di testa with hot chilies and charred onions is presented with butterhead lettuce for DIY head-cheese wraps. Homemade merguez pairs nicely with warm sourdough flatbread, and provides the exact sort of gutsy, plucky element the handsome space needed.

What you need to know

Recommended DishesLamb sausage; grass-fed burger.

DrinksFull Bar

Noise LevelBring earplugs!