Ribalta has always felt more Neapolitan than New York, with its European clientele, its raucous soccer broadcasts, and especially its pizza margherita, which tastes as classic as can be: the tender-chewy naturally leavened dough, with its faint and fleeting crackle; the sauce, a burst of pure tomato flavor; and the milky melt of cheese. As if that wasn’t enough, partners (and Neapolitan paesani) Rosario Procino and chef Pasquale Cozzolino upped the ante with yet a second, and dare we say it, better, margherita pizza — the STG (for specialita tradizionale garantita) — dappled with a cult-variety Neapolitan fior di latte (cows’-milk mozzarella) instead of the margherita DOC’s buffalo mozzarella. Ingredient provenance notwithstanding, they both deliver remarkably well, which is often the main concern of New Yorkers, if not Neapolitans. And should you desire to pad out your order with non-pizza fare, we heartily endorse the tender veal meatballs, the flash-fried zucchini scapece, and the spaghettoni al pomodoro, coated in a sweet, vibrant red sauce made from a specific breed of cherry tomato grown along the slopes of Mt. Vesuvius.