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Though the thick-and-doughy school of Sicilian pizza reigns supreme in Manhattan, the opposing thin-and-crisp camp still has a foothold in the outer boroughs. The holy grail of this rarefied style is at this unassuming pizzeria, where sophisticated restraint shows in a minimal toss of cheese, allowing the zingy sauce to shine through. And the crust is perfect: light and tender, about a quarter-inch thick, with a crunchy, golden raised edge. — Rob Patronite and Robin Raisfeld