L at Morgan Ave.
American Express, Discover, MasterCard, Visa
Broadway to Cypress Ave., Menahan St. to Union Ave.
Can two hip musicians versed in punky blues rock find fulfillment as artisanal pizza-makers in Bushwick? Owned by Chris Parachini (on bass) and Brandon Hoy (on keyboards), the pizzeria is in a forlorn part of Brooklyn filled with gritty factories, warehouses, and lofts. The restaurant, housed in a former garage, has wood-paneled walls, elongated wood tables, and mismatched captain’s chairs. Out back is a patio with additional seating and a rusting Mercedes-Benz sedan studded with flowerpots. The pizza, made in a wood-burning oven, is Neapolitan in inspiration and technique. The crusts are admirably airy and crispy, and the mozzarella homemadeóbut the tomato sauce could be richer and more assertive. There are nearly two dozen toppings, with unusual choices like taleggio cheese, capers, and speck. The combo pizzas remove the guesswork: The Fennel Frontier has delicious pieces of house-made pork sausage and fennel from the garden, and the InVolto aptly balances peppery sopressatta with mellow roasted red peppers.
Fennel Frontier, $16; R.P.S. InVolto, $16