Can two hip musicians versed in punky blues rock find fulfillment as artisanal pizza-makers in Bushwick? Owned by Chris Parachini (on bass) and Brandon Hoy (on keyboards), the pizzeria is in a forlorn part of Brooklyn filled with gritty factories, warehouses, and lofts. The restaurant, housed in a former garage, has wood-paneled walls, elongated wood tables, and mismatched captain’s chairs. Out back is a patio with additional seating and a rusting Mercedes-Benz sedan studded with flowerpots. The pizza, made in a wood-burning oven, is Neapolitan in inspiration and technique. The crusts are admirably airy and crispy, and the mozzarella homemade—but the tomato sauce could be richer and more assertive. There are nearly two dozen toppings, with unusual choices like taleggio cheese, capers, and tuna. The combo pizzas remove the guesswork: The guanciale and egg has delicious shavings of house-cured pork jowl surrounding an egg that has set perfectly, and the R.P.S. aptly balances peppery sorpresa with mellow roasted red peppers. — Michael Anstendig
Ideal Meal
Guanciale & egg, $12; R.P.S. (roasted peppers and sopressata), $13
While I love the food and vibe here, the growing list of complaints makes me less interested in going back. I'm happy to see my neighborhood gem continue to grow and build a profitable business, but I don't understand how they simply cannot allow me to order a pizza for take-out?! The guy on the phone yesterday bit my head off while explaining that they were just too damn busy for take out. Busy or not, learn how to keep up with the growth or risk pissing off your base customers who helped you build your place up and will keep you busy when the press dies down. I'm also annoyed that every time I go I have to flag down my server and they seem annoyed that I actually need something from them. Do your job and earn your tip.
I can't stand dealing with Roberta's terrible waitstaff even for delicious pizza that is 20 meters from my door. I used to really like bringing out-of towners to this place but when we're trying to work with a bitchy hostess and waiting an hour for a table we might as well go into Manhattan.
90% of the people working there are just really grumpy and angry at everyone. Maybe if their tips weren't being pooled they would have some incentive to be civil? Or the place is too crowded? All I know is that the waitstaff have cracked under the pressure and act completely unreasonably. As a waitress I know I'm not a demanding customer, after the third extremely negative experience there I'm giving up.
I'll be heading over to Cafe Moto when I need a relaxed, enjoyable evening.