A, B, C, D, E, F, M at W. 4th St.-Washington Sq.
This venue is closed.
Having endured generations of Greenwich Village transformations, this Thompson Street fixture (open since 1922) has served everyone from boozy, bohemian artists to raging political activists. Nowadays the clientele consists mainly of ambling out-of-towners drawn to the neon sign out front. Inside the two-room space, patches of rope lighting and antique lamps illuminate photos of veteran staff members, relatives, and celebrity guests. (Check out Johnny Depp during his 21 Jump Street days.) A smattering of mismatched countryside paintings and Italian antiques—olive-oil jugs, dishes, and wine bottles—create a slapdash Old World, much like the entrées themselves. Dessert is the saving grace: Tiramisu balances fluffy mascarpone atop a liquorish cake; perfectly crisped cannoli pipes are stuffed with fresh ricotta cheese then dusted with cinnamon.