Roman’s

Roman’s is known as the Italian-inspired, farm-to-table, service-included, natural-wine-pouring restaurant in Fort Greene that rewrites its menu nightly, which isn’t entirely true. What makes the seasonal cooking distinctive is not that dishes come and go, but that they mutate over time while still following recurring rustic motifs. Note the tendency toward hearty ragùs; chickpeas or other legumes in pasta or antipasto form; supersweet Peconic Bay scallops or Maine shrimp when they’re in season; and grass-fed, locally raised beef — the benefit of a whole-animal-butchering program Roman’s shares with sister restaurants Diner and Marlow & Sons. She Wolf Bakery was born in the Roman’s kitchen, so bread is also big, both to stay (as bruschette and pane cotto, or bread soup) and to go, by the crusty whole-grain loaf. The room buzzes at night, with low lights glinting off white subway tile, and regulars perch at the marble bar or one of the mismatched dining tables. If we lived in the neighborhood, we’d linger there, too, popping in for a bowl of pasta or the ingenious house cocktails — a daily “bitter” and “sour.”