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Andrew Tarlow and Mark Firth—the pair behind the ever-bustling Diner and Marlow & Sons—rechristened their former Bonita space into this candlelit small-plates spot in late 2009. Though the short menu (divided into three parts) changes nightly, all dishes are reliably locavore and ingredient-driven. You’re likely to start with a salad or something fried or creamy, like a recent soft-scrambled-egg crostini topped with ramp pesto or a delectable crock of baked, tangy stracchino cheese. Next is a pasta section, where there’s usually agnolotti stuffed with fillings ranging from short rib to arugula, and a tender meat ragout served over wide, flat noodles. Entrees are hearty and to the point: steak for two (sourced from Marlow & Daughters) or a chopped, braised, or grilled fish. Portions are small, and servers can get prickly if you request a course out of order, but the neighborhood spot feels particularly right for a weeknight dinner or for a glass of wine and a snack at the attractive marble bar. One dish that thankfully doesn’t rotate: a dark-chocolate sorbet so sinfully rich it earned our pick for Best Ice Cream. — Carolyn Murnick

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• Best of New York Food 2010: Best Ice Cream (3/15/10)