Profile

Dinner at Rossini's feels a little like attending a distant cousin's wedding. Perhaps it's the garland of pink-and-white flowers over the dining room's archway or the live piano music—strains of Cole Porter, and wine-soaked tourists corner singing along. But most likely it's the Northern Italian food, which resembles what's turned out by so many catering halls: Pearly scallops flanked by a grayish hashed-potato mash and a tiny square of off-yellow polenta. The lemony sautéed red snapper is equally monochromatic. You're best off with the pasta and other standards: Creamy bufala mozzarella and tomato, which would have been delicious on its own, is further improved by roasted red peppers and chewy air-dried prosciutto. The menu mixes hearty Lombardian fare with lighter Tuscan and Venetian touches. While pastas are substantial, dressed in meat-and-cream-based sauces, meat and fish is more likely to be marinated in more delicate sauces of wine, lemon, or butter. Veal is sautéed with a light wine and mushroom sauce accented with savory prosciutto and onion, while the house shrimp dish is presented in a champagne sauce. Still not what you had in mind for the evening's fare? No problem—the waiter will encourage you to challenge the chef: "Our menu is just an outline." — Kara Newman

Live opera music on Saturday nights.

Pesce della casa, market price; tiramisu, $8.50