Even if Little Italy’s best days are behind it, Rubirosa keeps the spirit alive. The owners are members of the Staten Island pizza royalty behind Joe & Pat’s, and its late founder was the son of the eponymous Joe. Think of this dimly lit and narrow downtown restaurant as a nouveau, populist paean to all things red sauce. The pizza is made in the formula of Joe & Pat’s, where the thin-crust, vodka-sauce-topped pies are some of the city’s best. It’s just the start, though. There’s a top-tier chicken parm with ostentatiously applied mozzarella, along with other classics of the Italian-American genre like baked clams, housemade pastas including spaghetti with meatballs, and a textbook lasagna.