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The burgundy-and-brass-bistro-by-the-numbers rooms don't lead you to expect much, but what used to be the dreariest corner on 57th Street is now a boisterously attractive destination with quirkily superb dishes like mission fig turnovers with Parma ham and duck crumble. Unlike Pastis, it won't remind you of Paris. But when was the last time you ate this well around the corner from Bergdorf Goodman? — Rob Patronite and Robin Raisfeld

Sat.–Sun., 11:30 a.m.–3:30 p.m.