N, W at Astoria Blvd.
American Express, Discover, MasterCard, Visa
Northern Blvd. to 20th Ave., Brooklyn Queens Expy. to Vernon Blvd.
Sabry’s is Egyptian, like most of its neighbors on Astoria’s Cairo corridor, but it feels more like a seafood shack on the coast of Maine—or maybe City Island. Of course, you’re not going to get super-puffy pita right out of the oven at Johnny’s Reef, never mind the all-important dish of dill-flecked tahini to dip it in. The fish is fresh and the portions generous—all grilled, fried, or baked entrées come with an herb-dappled iceberg-lettuce salad and rice pilaf or fries, which will invariably find their way into that addictive tahini, too. Sabry’s tajines are tomato-based, oven-baked stews of calamari or shrimp, and are recommended, as is his whole striped bass seasoned with lemon and cumin, the spice-rack secret to Sabry’s success. Leave the booze at home: The Muslim management forbids it.Recommended Dishes
Oven-baked calamari or shrimp stew, $14; whole striped bass with lemon and cumin, $18.95