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After a while, all those Greek tavernas in Astoria tend to blend together. But the ambitious owners of S'Agapo (meaning "I love you") have indeed won a passionate following, importing many of their ingredients straight from Crete and treating customers with familial attention. Fresh fish laid out on ice, and splashed-color paintings on lavender walls enhance the relaxed, old-school atmosphere inside, though on warm nights guests will wait in line for sidewalk tables. Always a good sign, many of the diners chatting with the amiable waiters are Greek themselves. Group meals often begin with the platter of dips, refreshing samplings of yogurt with cucumber, and carp roe mousse, along with some more pungent tastes—a bracing parsley that smells garden picked, a strong, creamy garlic and earthy ground grape leaves. Here the keftedes, Greek meatballs resembling small hamburger patties, are grilled to a peak of smoky, juicy flavor—much more gratifying than the slightly tough lamb kabob loaded with red and green peppers. Hills of soft, tangy lemon potatoes smooth out any gustatory bumps. Among the homebaked goods on display, Athenian cream cake makes a charming Greek cousin to tiramisu, with a moist slab of cream and custard sitting on top of honey-drenched biscuits. — Alia Akkam

Dip sampler platter, $15; keftedes, $13; Athenian cream cake, $5