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Compared to other nearby Thai restaurants, the décor at Saha is unremarkable, if not tacky, with garlands wrapped around cords of hanging lights. The food is above par, however, starting with tasty steamed rice paper rolls stuffed with herbs, vermicelli, and grilled shrimp. With plenty of Chinese broccoli, the rad naa, a wider noodle than the ubiquitous pad thai, satisfies as both a noodle and vegetable dish. Like most Southeast Asian restaurants, veggie-friendly options here are vast; tofu, which can substitute for meat in any dish, is lightly fried, still fluffy, and full of flavor. Keep in mind the duck salad, however, is not a salad in the conventional sense, but rather a heap of fatty duck bits doused in a sweet chili paste on one large lettuce leaf. For fish, the pla rard prik arrives a beautiful whole red snapper, crispy and mildly spiced. For dessert, there’s runny fried ice cream that de-crisps its tempura batter, or creamy coconut custard, which tastes and travels better. What you won’t come home with is a MSG hangover; all the food here is made without. — Randi Eichenbaum

Steamed roll with shrimp, $6.50; pad cee eiw with tofu, $8.95; pla rard prik, seasonal price