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Sakura Hana feels more like a canteen than a reliable sushi restaurant. But the treatment of fish here is as rigorous as the conversations are relaxed. Since taking over this decades-old stalwart in 2003 with genteel brother Dang as front-of-house manager, chef Floyd Vang has gained a sizeable following for generous slabs of ultra-fresh fish and bulging combination rolls. Best of all—and mercifully, in an era of “my-way-or-the-highway” diva sushi chefs—Vang won’t flinch if customers order off the menu to suit personal tastes, dietary restrictions, or creative urges. It’s tempting to overlook appetizers for the main event, but don’t; the kitchen coaxes clean, clear flavors from familiar starters like miso soup and age tofu. Sakura Hana’s 12-seat tatami room in back, complete with karaoke system, is booked most nights, and off-key singing will occasionally overpower the classical music Vang broadcast from his paper-lantern-encircled perch. — Michael Kaminer

Sushi & sashimi combination for two, $40; avocado special roll, $11.50; chirinabe with chicken, tofu, and vegetables, $12.25