Sun-Wed, 11am-10pm; Thu, 11am-10:30pm; Fri-Sat, 11am-11pm
1, 2, 3 at 72nd St.
American Express, Discover, MasterCard, Visa
A partnership between former Maremma chef Cesare Casella and Italian meat masters Parmacotto produced this salumeria-cum-small-plates restaurant that’s also a lesson in tiny-space efficiency. Cured meats are unobtrusively positioned at a counter by the entrance, where butchers slice both grocery and in-house portions to order. The L-shaped room feels both intimate and hip, thanks to black-mirrored walls and an imaginative map of Italy built from plaster-cast fruits, vegetables, and meats. It’s the Tuscan food that holds your attention, however; a rich salad of asparagus and chopped egg is brightened by a sharp vinaigrette, a Lilliputian serving of rigatoni all’amatriciana is toothsome with meaty bites of guanciale, and a single Tuscan-style short rib is served in a rosemary-inflected tomato ragù that’s almost juicier than the meat itself. A vast selection of precisely seasoned salumi and a small cluster of Italian cheeses are available individually in chef-selected mixed platters that also make a good value. On particularly busy nights, the host will gently inform you that they’ll need the table back in an hour or so—even if you have a reservation—making it difficult to linger over the ricotta cheesecake.Note
Chef Cesare Casella is no longer involved with the restaurant.
Small Selezione del Salumiere, $18; Costina [Tuscan short rib], $16; Torta di Ricotta, $9