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Gennaro Sbarro's last name may be associated with the family fast-food chain, but his sleek midtown spot shows he can handle high-end Italian just as well. His menu gives a modern spin to pastas, pizzas, fish, and steaks. The use of cranberries, oranges, and a sherry vinaigrette tartly tweak the frisée salad; handmade chocolate tagliolini noodles get topped with wild boar ragù. Throughout, the kitchen emphasizes a light touch, whether it's via the caramelized fennel accompanying the roasted salmon or by way of the airily whipped polenta beneath the subtly breaded, fried artichokes. A clublike bar, a.k.a. Vento Lounge, greets you in a gentlemanly fashion; abstract art on the back wall provides a respite from the two-tiered dining minimalism of white linens and banquettes. — Ethan Wolff

Palermo salad, $18; filet of branzino, $42