4, 5, 6, 7, S at Grand Central-42nd St.; B, D, F, M at 42nd St.-Bryant Park
American Express, Discover, MasterCard, Visa
29th St. to 49th St., Lexington Ave. to Sixth Ave
This venue is closed.
Gennaro Sbarro's last name may be associated with the family fast-food chain, but his sleek midtown spot shows he can handle high-end Italian just as well. His menu gives a modern spin to pastas, pizzas, fish, and steaks. The use of cranberries, oranges, and a sherry vinaigrette tartly tweak the frisée salad; handmade chocolate tagliolini noodles get topped with wild boar ragù. Throughout, the kitchen emphasizes a light touch, whether it's via the caramelized fennel accompanying the roasted salmon or by way of the airily whipped polenta beneath the subtly breaded, fried artichokes. A clublike bar, a.k.a. Vento Lounge, greets you in a gentlemanly fashion; abstract art on the back wall provides a respite from the two-tiered dining minimalism of white linens and banquettes.Recommended Dishes
Palermo salad, $18; filet of branzino, $42