Mon-Thu, 5pm-11pm; Fri-Sun, noon-11pm
4, 5, 6 at 86th St.
American Express, Discover, MasterCard, Visa
85th St. to 95th St., FDR Dr. to Fifth Ave.
This long, narrow spot is filled with the warmth of the wood-fired oven that bulges from the wall at the back. Perch yourself at the bar fashioned from old wine bottles and you can watch as the oven pumps out the pizzas, calzones, and panuozzo that make San Matteo so popular. The panuozzo, which can best be described as a cross between a pizza and a panino, is the standout. Soft pizza dough is folded over and filled with a choice of mozzarella, mortadella, and marinated eggplant, or the crowd-pleasing roasted pork. The imported prosciutto antipasti plates are generous, but the selection of six cheeses with truffle-infused honey could do with some other nibbles on the plate to balance the mounds of cheese. Finish with an espresso, of course.