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Flushing’s lively commercial hub, at the eastern terminus of the 7 line, is Queens squared: Vietnamese noodle stands advertise in Spanish, while the Macedonia African Methodist Episcopal Church stands cattycorner to San Soo Kap San, the smaller outpost of Northern Boulevard’s Korean mega-restaurant. With its sturdy wooden décor, steady customer turnover and unflappably efficient staff, the ambience of this eatery isn’t appreciably different from one of Manhattan’s larger K-town establishments. The kitchen fares about the same, with a few highlights tucked away in the sprawling menu. Along with the inevitable ban chan—that plethora of side dishes most non-Koreans treat as gratis appetizers—the chogae shegumchee gook, a clam and spinach soup, makes for an apt if slightly neutral starter. The nakji bokkeum, a blend of generous octopus chunks, fat noodles and crisp vegetables in fiery chili sauce, is more like it, especially when followed by bibim naengmyun—iced vermicelli noodles with egg, pork strips and succulent ribbons of pear. — Mark Holcomb

Koryodong Bakery across the street makes an appealing spot for dessert and a cup of tea.

Nakji bokkeum, $18.95; bibim naengmyun, $11.95