Profile

Le Bernardin and Bouley veteran Saul Bolton opened this Smith Street pioneer back in 1999. The intimate space with pressed-tin ceilings gets crowded—and noisy—but Bolton's staff runs a smooth show. The menu changes seasonally, so if the delectably tender duck confit (brined and resting atop buttery, cheesy grits) or succulent pan-roasted skate (served on a bed of braised endive, fennel, and apple) aren't available, don't fret—most dishes are great successes. An oversalted combination of bay scallops with tomato vinaigrette and prosciutto was a surprise miss. Bolton's signature Baked Alaska, meringue gorgeously tufted, makes for a whimsical end to the meal. Or, for a good night's sleep, opt for easy-drinking Marolo chamomile grappa. — Megan Creydt

Duck confit; pan-roasted skate